Just a few steps into this Federal Hill restaurant, you'll notice an open kitchen takes center stage--much like the food. Oversized windows and sparse furnishings stave off claustrophobia in the warren of cozy dining rooms, as earthy green and brown tones warm the minimalist background. "Small plate" starters such as tuna and avocado tartare and lobster ravioli are anything but small. The tartare's whirlwind of Asian-influenced flavors highlights its freshness. In the red pepper bisque with Maryland blue crab, the piquant punch of the spices makes the sweet crab a mere sidekick. The Hereford tenderloin medallion stands out in a triumvirate-of-meat dish, where the Kobe beef top sirloin and short ribs in a Burgundy reduction sauce took the silver and bronze in a close competition.